champagne and cheese puffs

Two weekends ago was the confirmation of my twin host siblings, Edouard and Charlotte. All day Sunday included lots of family, friends, music, dancing and a very typical six hour French meal. This gives me the perfect opportunity to try and describe the wonderfulness that is French cuisine and the very traditional French ways of eating.

First and foremost, you always start with an aperitif which is usually a light wine (typically champagne) or brandy/whiskey for the men. This also includes little hand snacks such as crackers or freshly cut raw vegetables (as is mainly the case during the spring and then summer). The aperitif is generally taken in the living room, or outdoors. If you’re at a fancy party which is not in someone’s house, it’s usually taken in a random room with servers passing around the drinks and peanuts, olives, etc. and everyone stands and socializes. It’s a nice way to start the meal with light conversation and lets the hostess check up on her meals without drawing too much attention to her absence.
At this particular meal, we had champagne and finger sandwiches as well as chips and salty snacks for the children. Since I’m in the weird limbo between adult and child, I was encouraged to drink champagne and talk politics with the adults and eat cheese puffs and hula hoop with the kids.

Next you have the entrée. When everyone has settled down into their seats at the table, the entrée is presented. Depending on the season and the formality of the meal, the entrée can vary from a soup to a salad to a vegetable or fish dish. The portions are usually half the size of a regular meal (and served on smaller plates) and are the equivalent of what we would call “hors d’oeuvre” (which, despite being a French name, does not exist according to my host family. Do not let google deceive you). The entrée is usually served with a white wine, since it’s a lighter dish, and is eaten with the first fork and knife in your setting (the smaller ones). Again, depending on the formality of the dinner you will have a varied amount of silverware and glasses. There is usually one smaller wine glass used for the aperitif (but that’s disposed of as soon as you’re at the table) and for the white wine, you use the smallest of the three in your place (or two, depending). This is getting confusing, hold on let me try and simplify. If you have three glasses in your setting, the smallest is for white wine, the medium for red and the largest for water. If you have two, the smallest is used for both the white and the red and the largest again for the water (with or without bubbles, you’re choice…but almost always bottled).
For our entrée, we had three scallops set on small nests of cooked leeks and a beet salad lightly tossed in vinaigrette. En plus, we had this shrimp paste thing…I don’t know, that’s the best I can describe it.

After all the dishes are cleared away, you are left with one fork and two knives, occasionally a spoon and always and empty spot soon to be taken up by the largest course. The plat principal, is the third plate of the meal and usually the grandest and richest portion. It always includes about two portions of vegetables (usually potatoes, mashed or not, and a steamed or cooked medley of whatever’s in season) and meat. Red wine is almost always taken with this course and it is eaten with your biggest knife and remaining fork.
For the confirmation, we had lamb as well as a carrot, onions, zucchini and eggplant mixture. We also had puree, better known to Americans as mashed potatoes.

By this time, two hours or so have passed and everyone is starting to feel the bloat of their stomach uncomfortably tight against their clothing. But we’re not done, oh no, there’s still two more courses, and what’s more, the two that rest are my two favorite parts of the meal.

Next is the cheese and salad course. A giant platter of cheese is passed around including specialties of the region as well as the more clichéd types (brie, camembert, etc.). Bread is always a’ plenty and while you cut your fromage with the knife on the platter, you have one last knife specifically for your own use. Red wine is also taken with the cheese.
Sometimes, a light salad with a bit of oil and vinegar is served as well.

Finally, you’ve reached the dessert course which can be anything. Depending on the season and meal, you could have fruit, ice cream, cake, pie, chocolate, macaroons…anything. At this point, you have one spoon left, and it is used for this course. We had a plate of macaroons as well as little fruit tartes.

Finally, with all the courses behind you, conversation has winded down and everyone settles into a comfortable silence with occasional remarks concerning how great the meal was. A few minutes after the plates are cleared, espressos appear for all who wants them as well as tea infusions, on request. Everyone begins to ready themselves to stand up (usually quite a feat) and move into the living room to finish conversation or smoke a cigar.

The longest meal I’ve ever attended was 8 hours long…starting at 8 PM and finishing at 4 the next morning. Generally, meals are around 5-6 hours, but this is really only for big parties or gatherings.

Volia. Anyway, the last few weeks have been flying faster than I ever thought possible. The next few promise to follow in a similar path as my time here winds down. My feelings towards the end of the exchange are every changing, but mainly ineffable. I’m devastated to leave my wonderful new home, but I know I’ll be back. In addition, the call of my own bed and so many familiar faces makes it hard to be completely melancholy about my return. In any case, I recognize that while this adventure is ending, the memories I’ve made will never leave me.
Plus, I’ve got pictures.

Hope all is well and see you all SOON! Bisous,
Kristen