Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Fois Gras and Me
But seriously, I don’t, I just…I just can’t like it. I’ve tried it, and tried to like it, but it just doesn’t work. Me and fois gras, we just weren’t made to be together. It’s like Tom and Jerry or Romeo and Juliet (sans the devoted love part); we just can’t live together in peace. I don’t like it, and it doesn’t like me (and I KNOW it doesn’t like me, because why else would it insist on inflicting it’s terribly, pasty, meat and backwoods smoky taste on my tongue every time I try and suffer through it for the sake of France?). But if there’s one thing the French have trouble accepting, it’s the disrespect in the form of dislike of their favorite devil’s-paste. Let’s recap on last night’s Rotary Christmas dinner, shall we?
Alright, so for the most part, it went really well. I held my own conversation wise and overall the evening was quite pleasant, held in a folksy but classy little Bed and Breakfast just outside of Compiegne. During the aperitif, I was making friendly conversation with two Rotarians when I was asked a simple question: What French food did I not find mouth-watering delicious and thoroughly irresistible (as if there was such a food!)? I answered as honestly and humbly as I could that while I can occasionally manage cooked and warm fois gras, when it’s cold it just does not suit my gout. Later, as everyone was settling down at the table and the menu was being shown around and discussed, I saw that –surprise!- our entrée was not one, but two different sorts of the very meat paste that makes my palate tingle in horror. The nice man I talked to at the start looked at me and with a friendly twinkle in his eye said “uh, oh, Kristen…”
I prepared myself to suffer through it silently as the entree arrived. After all, I’d done it before. Just put a little on your fork, place at the back of your tongue where it can do the least amount of damage to the taste buds and swallow, followed by a quick bite of bread. With everyone served, I looked down at my plate with apprehension and eyed my enemy. I picked up my fork, cut off a piece big enough to pass for a solid try and prayed that my taste buds would suddenly numb and save me the horror that I had experienced every other time I’d eaten it. They didn’t. I tried again with a slightly smaller piece. Same. I continued one or two more times each with a smaller piece than the last when a voice startled me out of my agony. “Do you like it?” I was asked. Before I could demurely murmur that it was fine, thank you, someone spoke up for me saying “she doesn’t like fois gras”.
Silence. Deafening silence. Slowly, person by person, it spread down the table that –horror of horrors! – Kristen doesn’t like the heavenly fattened liver of goose that is one of France’s most prized specialties. I swear that you would have thought I had stood up, threw some wine and then slapped the lady across from me with the looks of shock I was greeted with. Thankfully, several people came quickly back to their senses and offered kindly “no worries”, assuring me that I wasn’t obligated to eat it.
As conversation started back up again, my rotary contact looked at me and said “Donnez-moi”…give me. Embarrassed, intimidated and bewildered, I handed her my plate and the remaining food of Satan was divided between whoever wanted it and passed around the entire table as I sat quietly with my cheeks burning and my dirty silverware in my hand. The waiter, alarmed at the passing of my plate, asked if everything was all right to which the response was “Oh, yeah…she’s just American”. I guess that explained everything.
I spent the remainder of the (four hour) meal eating everything on my plate - the plat principal of chicken and potatoes, the plate of cheese (which wreaked havoc on my stomach) and the dessert plate of chocolate (despite my being so full I wasn’t sure if I could stand up) – and comment on how much I liked it and trying to explain that I’m really not a picky eater…I swear!!
Other than that, the dinner passed without a problem as I made conversation here and discussed “le crise” there. It was mostly a success which puts me at 1 and fois gras at 3 (seeing as I silently ate it ALL the three other times it was given to me). I’m catching up pasty liver fat…watch your back.
So, the past two weekends I was in Belgium with my host family with the most recent being for the wedding of my “aunt.” It was really lovely and everyone (especially the bride) looked wonderful. There was lots of food (FOIS GRAS, YOU GOT ME AGAIN!), dancing, wine, love and fun and for the first time, I really felt a break through with the language. I met more new people than I could possibly remember and spent the whole weekend with barely a word of English…a true accomplishment! Other than that, I’ve just been hanging around, babysitting, bike riding (12 km along the Belgian country side with my host grandmother…it was right out of a Forster novel, I swear!), celebrating St. Nicolas Day (who, is apparently NOT the same person as Santa Claus OR Pere Noel…and who goes around to all the children’s houses giving out gifts to the good and having his African helper BEAT THE BAD CHILDREN on Dec 6th) and sending out my Christmas cards. Last week my friend Victoria came to visit on Wednesday and we spent the day Christmas shopping at the marche de noel in my town and just speaking the wonderful language that is our native tongue. It’s been very cold lately…not that that really bothers me (upstate New Yorkers don’t get cold), it’s more the wind that’s so raw it could rip the skin right off your cheeks that gets to me.
I’m officially on break come Saturday and we’ll be off to Belgium again for the holidays (it really does not feel like Christmas to me at all). Then come January I change host families and a whole new period of readjustment and learning begins.
Have a safe and happy holiday! I miss and love you all!
Bisous,
Kristen
Thursday, December 4, 2008
100th Day
So, aside from all that 100 dayness, I’ve been a busy little papillion as of late. Two weekends ago I had a Rotary conference where I got to see all of my friends and had an absolute BLAST. I stayed over at my friend Victoria’s house for the weekend, and on Sunday before I left to come “home”, we went to the chateau de Chantilly (in her town). It’s absolutely amazing, because the man who lived there (a cousin of Louis the somethingth) put in his will that he wanted nothing moved around or changed and so all the artwork and everything is in the same place that he left it when he died. The gardens were also built by the same man who did the Versailles gardens (but I didn’t get to see them as it was raining very heavily). It was pretty amazing.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Brussels and a not 514 euro haircut

Well, when it was finished I did think it looked nice, right up until I saw what it cost. She announced the price to me and as I’m horrible with numbers, I asked if I could please see it on the calculator. Glancing down, I lost a good four or five years of my life when I saw that it was 514 euros. Yes, you read that correctly, five HUNDRED and fourteen. I knew that the French valued their appearance - God forbid someone leave the house without each curl in place, eyebrows plucked and five inch heals shined - but to pay five hundred and fourteen euros for hair seemed a little excessive! What was I going to do? Did I have enough money for this? Who did I have to take off my Christmas list? Was it even worth it? WHAT WAS I GOING TO TELL MY MOM?!
Since I didn’t have all the cash with me, I gave her my credit card, but the machine didn’t accept it. I was in a panic at this point and trying to keep my cool and not start hyperventilating in a French hair salon. Luckily, she was very nice and told me that she trusted me (and my host family, whose hair she’s done since the children were very young) and I could come back on Tuesday with the money. Long story short (too late), when my host mother asked what I thought about my hair, I said: “Je suis tres content avec le fringe et le colour, mais pas vraiment avec le prix…c’etait 514 euro” to which she replied “QUOI? Non, non, non…c’est pas possible. You must have not heard/seen correctly, I’m sure it’s only 51.40”.
Calmed, but still incredibly anxious, I returned Tuesday morning during a break from school and paid…the plus petit sum of 51.40 euro.
Now: Funny. Then: Not so much.
Other than that near hysteria situation, I’ve been doing quite well. The weekend of Nov 8th and 9th I went to Belgium with my host family and spent Saturday in Brussels. I really, really enjoyed the city; since it’s the home of the European Union, it’s quite international and I heard more languages and saw more cultures in that one day than I think I’ve ever seen in my whole life combined. It was very beautiful and historic and I saw, among other things, the royal palace, the Saint Michael and Saint Gudula Cathedral, the famous “Mannikan Piss” statue, “Lady Luck”, the beautiful downtown and lots and lots of Belgian waffles. I also learned a lot about Belgium that I never knew…it has a rich history and I’m surprised we never learned more about it in school.
This weekend I have a Rotary conference and as my host family is going to be in Belgium, I’m staying with a Rotary friend, Victoria, for the weekend. Then, Monday I’m going to babysit (I also babysat last Tuesday night), Tuesday I have a Rotary “soiree-cinema” and Friday, I think Astrid is going to have a little Thanksgiving for me. Saturday is another Rotary day…I’ll be working at the “banque alimentaire” (food bank) and the following Monday is yet another Rotary conference. December 13th brings another trip to Belgium for the wedding of my “aunt”, but further than that, I don’t think I have too much going on.
It’s weird for me to think I’m going to miss Thanksgiving with my family this year. I’m trying really hard to think of this whole holiday season not as “inferior” to the one I’m used to, rather just different. Easier said than done.
I should also mention that as I’m writing this I should be in school. However I’m not, because the teachers are on strike. Oh, France…
Happy twelve weeks and one day to me! Wow, eight-six whole days…I can’t believe it! And Happy Thanksgiving to all, enjoy your turkey!
Hope everyone is well! Gros Bisous,
Kristen
Sunday, November 2, 2008
It's November?!
You know the expression “when it rains, it pours”? That sums up how this past month has been. It’s been one thing to another, just bouncing around France (and Germany!!). Currently, I’m on break from school for two weeks. The French like big breaks at random times during the year (I have another one in Dec-Jan, Feb-March and April-May), and let me tell you, I’m really liking it too! I just returned from a week vacation in the French region of Alsace (on the boarder of Germany…think Strasbourg) and Germany. Among other things, we toured a bunch of cities, saw chapels and churches, vineyards and chateaus, went to a bread museum (only in France…), tasted the regions delicacies, stayed in a bungalow, monastary and four star hotel, and went to EuropaPark (the European equivalent of DisneyLand…well, it would be if Europe Disney didn’t exist). It was a whirlwind of an experience – I saw so many cities and so much history and had so much fun! It’s impossible to write it all down. I’m now into the second week of “Tous Saints”, and will return to school on Thursday. But then we’re off to Belgium on Saturday for another weekend and Astrid has promised to take me to Brussels!
My French is really coming along. I feel I’m at the point where I can understand almost all that’s being said, and can also hold my own in conversation past the standard “Bonjour, je m'appelle Kristen. Je viens de New York...mais l'etat pas la ville. Je suis un correspondant avec Rotary. J'aime lire. Qu'est-ce que tu aimes?" That being said, I still have difficulty expressing exactly what I want to say, because of several barriers: One, I always have to be wary of what I’m saying and how it translates. Some things translate literally much heavier than I intended, so it’s important to be on one’s guard, especially when expressing an opinion. The last thing I want is to offend anyone unintentionally! Two, my accent which is improving, but jeez those “r” sounds are just down right hard to say! And three, well it’s only been two months! I’m still not an expert in the French vocabulary.
Other things I’ve done in the past month include taking as many walks as possible while the sun is still out and relatively warm, babysat a few more times, attending meetings of a religious group I’m part of (the purpose of the group is to get together once a month or so and discuss current events. It’s a Catholic group, and I’m Methodist, but I find it interesting to hear another religion and culture’s ideas and opinions), voted for the first time with an absentee ballot, had my first, had my first Halloween away from home (which didn’t even exist really…the French don’t celebrate it and we had just one trick-or-treater which was one more than the de Moffarts were used to having), and attended a large Rotary dinner where among other things, I ate cheese ice cream. Oh yes. Cheese. Ice cream. CHEESEICECREAM. It was…quite an experience.
I’m doing really well and am loving my time here in Compiegne. I’m so happy to have met so many nice and wonderful people, traveled and experienced so much already and have such a wonderful host family. I had a few days last month where homesickness crawled up silently behind me and covered my eyes with its nasty, slimy hands, but I know both from Rotary’s warnings and talking to other exchangees that it’s perfectly normal.
Well that’s all for now. Hope everyone is well and is having a fall. Thank you everyone for your well wishes, love and support! I miss and love you all too!
Bisous,
Kristen
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Mont St Michel
We arrived and unpacked all our stuff for the weekend. We stayed in a bungalow with about six students to each. They were really cute, like little, mini, French houses, but unfortunately, they had no bathrooms. There was one large building with toilets, sinks and showers for everyone to use and it was UNISEX (as many bathrooms are here) and I have yet to get over it. There’s just something so odd about coming out of a stall and washing your hands right next to a guy. It’s not something I’ve ever experienced in the US and it’s just very…different.
While on the bus, Marissa and I wondered out loud to each other about Anne, the other girl from our district, and thought about how she was doing. After unpacking, we walked to lunch (lunch was a “pique-nique” provided by the hotel which included: a salami sandwich, a ham sandwich, a piece of bread, some cheese, an orange, a stick of chocolate…AND AN EGG? ) and low and behold – THERE WAS ANNE! It was so fantastic and all three of us shared yet an even JUMP-IER, EXCITED-IER hug. It was so amazing to see both of them, as I thought the next time I’d see them (after the plane) would be the welcome home picnic in August! They are both doing so well and I’m still over the moon that we got to hang out all weekend.
Saturday afternoon we drove to Mont St Michel and proceeded to WALK around it in the windy, cold rain…barefoot in the mud and freezing ocean water for FOUR HOURS. But it was really, really beautiful. There’s a big debate about which is the most visited tourist attraction in France – the Eiffel Tower or Mont St Michel. I’m not sure which is the true winner, but I can say that Mont St Michel is one of the most beautiful, historical structures I’ve ever seen. The pointed abbey sits on top of a little island that makes the most majestic scene, especially come sunset. It’s absolutely incredible.
That night, there was a big Rotary dinner with traditional folk dancers for entertainment. After they were finished, all the countries got up and sang their national anthem. There was Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Brazil, Mexico, Ecuador, Venezuela, Argentina, Slovakia, Russia, Germany, Canada, USA and a few more countries represented with all the students. After that, there was a dance till around 2 in the morning (what is it with Rotary and dances :]?). It was really, really cool to meet everyone from all the different countries and all over the US. All in all, I think there were 6 or 7 districts there, all from the north of France.
Sunday morning, we went back to the abbey and had two hours to tour it. History geek that I am, I wish we had had a week to explore it! It’s such a beautiful structure and I’m in awe of how it was built and the history behind each and every room in it. After we finished, it was time for a quick lunch and then the bus ride home. Although everyone was incredibly tired, we all stayed awake and talked the whole way home. There was a lot of giggling and laughing, which I’m sure was due to our slap-happy exhaustion, but it was a wonderful weekend that I can’t believe was only two days – it feel like it was so much longer, but so much shorter!
So, now I’m “home”, still tired, but happily reflecting on everything. Today is my 42nd day here, and I just can’t believe I’ve been away so long! It’s been a little difficult to switch back to French after two days in mostly all English, but I’m doing really well and am really happy.
Hope all is well with everyone! Bisous!
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
A letter to my country
Hey there, it’s Kristen. How’re you doing? I’m doing pretty well, thanks. I’ve been having a great time lately, and have been keeping busy. I went to Park Astrix, an amusement park near Paris, two weekends ago with my host family and that was fun. We hosted a German “correspondent” for a week in our house which was interesting. His name was Matthius and he was very kind, and just as confused as I was at the beginning of this exchange. I went to a modern dance class with a girl named Marie (which was fun, but nothing like a Donna Decker class) and am looking around town for a ballet studio. I went to a talk with an American journalist who live in France (Ted Stanger) about the upcoming election and babysat a few more times. I’ve gone shopping and bought some cute new fall clothes and a new camera (mine wouldn’t charge here) and have been reading and writing (I just finished my second journal!). Busy, busy, busy.
Last weekend I went to Belgium with my host family and it was really beautiful. The scenery was breathtaking, and the Belgian people are SO NICE. I didn’t have any waffles or French fries (which, as a side note, apparently were invented in Belgium and they are VERY TOUCHY on the subject of American’s calling THEIR fries “French”). I know, I know, I can hear your astonishment -“Kristen, you went to Belgium and did not eat their world famous Belgian waffles or their equally alluring fries? What exactly did you DO there, then?” Well America, what I did was eat their chocolate; their marvelous, manna-like chocolate. I don’t think I will ever look at a Hershey’s bar the same. Ironically, I also celebrated my one month anniversary in France in Belgium. It astounds me that I’ve been away from you for so long.
I miss quite a bit about you, America – especially your New York autumns. The trees change here, and everyone loves to point out the prettiness of the newly turned red leaves, but it’s not the same.. I miss the sunny but briskly cool days where nothing is more soothing than a walk outdoors contemplating the changing colors of the season followed by a steaming cup of tea. I miss the apples and the cider, the Fly Creek Cider Mill donuts, the scarecrows, the pumpkins – all the traditional fall things. There’s just nothing that can be compared to an upstate New York fall, not even beautiful, romantic France with its lovely countryside and history. And your pizza...oh, how I miss your pizza. Don't get me wrong, the food here is beyond fabulous, but Otown is the only place in the world you can really get a little slice of heaven. This new town is nothing like my “city of the hills”; it’s both different and wonderful in its own way. I’m curious as to what I’ll miss of it next year at the same time as now.
Now, America, I’m a bit confused about what’s going on with you. I’ve heard some rumors that I don’t really understand. First I was shocked by Sarah Palin; that was quite a curveball from McCain, eh? And now I’m hearing something about the stock market crashing? America, what’s going on? I think about you all the time, mainly because I’m always introduced as “Kristen, the American”. I never really thought of myself as American until now (I mean, obviously I knew I was, but I didn’t wake up in the morning, look in the mirror and say “Good Morning, self, you’re an American!”). You’re making it a little difficult for me with all this silliness. I'm trying hard to intergrate myself into this new culture and it's hard when I constantly have to worry about you. Please, pull yourself together, dear.
Well, that’s all I have to say for now. This weekend I’m going to Mont St Michel with Rotary which I hear is absolutely beautiful. I’m quite excited.. I really do hope all is well, keep in touch.
Bisous,
Kristen
Friday, September 19, 2008
In which I state a few facts
*Claire, Me and her sister in Paris
*The restaurant where Rotary meetings are held every Monday
*Compiegne Town Hall
Fact: The French have 6 more minutes for news.
Apparently, an hour is not enough for the French to watch the news. They need something more satisfactory than just sixty measly minutes of information. But what, but what? What could possibly be better than sixty minutes of news? How about SIXTY- SIX minutes?
The equivalent of the American news program “60 Minutes” here is called “66 minutes”. It never ceases to entertain me…imagine only ONE HOUR for news…ppshhhh, we Americans…
Fact: Cuckoo is not for birds…or clocks.
In France, the word “Cuckoo” is used to announce your arrival (example, if I just came home and didn’t know if anyone was there, I would yell “CUCKOO” and see if I got an answer) or to get someone’s attention. It is something I still feel much too silly to say, along with “OHHHH LA LAAAA”, but keep timidly trying out every few days to see if it feels more natural.
Fact: Croustys chocolat noir-chocolat blanc is THE BEST cereal in the world.
This is not an opinion, it is a fact. My host mother buys this cereal called “Croustys chocolat noir-chocolat blanc” and it is truly heaven. I honestly wake up in the morning EXCITED that I get to eat it. It’s like a chocolaty granola with little bits of white and dark chocolate mixed in. I don’t know what it is about it…but I’m completely addicted and could eat an entire box by myself (of course I would never consider eating an entire box of my host family’s cereal by myself as it would be terribly rude and I would most likely get sick…but I do NOT exaggerate when I tell you how wonderful it is).
Fact: The French move at hyper speed.
At first, every time I went out with a host family member or a friend from school, I thought we might be late for something. Then gradually I came to understand that the French are just fast…at everything. They walk fast (I never thought of myself as a slow walker…I like a comfortable speed somewhere between brisk and leisurely…but here, I am a sloth), they speak fast, they bike fast (by the end of my bike rides with my host brother, Valentin, I’m embarrassed to be panting and out of breath while he hasn’t even broken a sweat), and boy, do they DRIVE fast. Maybe it’s something in the water, maybe they’re all superhuman…but whatever it is, everyday my energy is completely gone from just trying to keep up.
So, things have been going extremely well as of late. True to form, I have become busier and busier and I can’t believe I’ve been here for 24 days. It feels like it’s been a lifetime, and it feels like I just left. I’ve been making more friends at school and have become really close to Franzi, the German correspondent. We totally “get” each other and are into a lot of the same things. I’m surprised at how close I feel to her after so little time…but one strong bond we have is that we are both exchange students and understand each other’s moods and struggles. It’s the same with all the other Rotary kids I’ve met, we could all be as different as night and day, but one thing we ALL understand is this experience – the highs, the lows and all the in-betweens.
Last Saturday, I had my first Catholic mass…with the Pope. We left for Paris at six in the morning on a bus (it was a bus trip with the church my host family attends and I went with girl I know named Claire and her sister), arrived, walked to where the mass was held (it was outside and there were a TON of people, so we watched on a giant screen that had been set up) and when it was over, walked down the Champs Ellysee to the bus and came home. It was an exhausting, but exhilarating day, and though I’m not Catholic, I am still in awe and completely understand the significance of the experience.
Other things I’ve done this past week:
Attended another Rotary meeting: It was my first time sans Helene (my country contact), but I was fine on my own. My club has about 15-20 members and they’re all very nice and for the most part remember to speak slowly to me. Just like in Oneonta, they ring a bell to start and end their meetings too! Last week, I gave everyone a New York State quarter and the man who sat next to me this week brought me 10 Franc – which is a little gold coin with a picture of Victor Hugo on it. It was very nice.
· Babysat two more times for the Armstrongs: Astrid works with an American man (named Curt Armstrong) from Georgia who lives here with his French wife (Anne-Christine) and they have four children who I’ve babysat for once previously. This week (Wed night and Thurs night) I babysat again and all went well. The children speak English and French and I help them with their English, they help me with my French. I really like babysitting for them as for the most part they’re very well behaved. And I learn a lot besides the language…I now know how to change diapers, comfort a rambunctious three year old and give a baby a bath.
· Had my second EPS class (gym): I was WRONG last time when I said it was a slack off class. WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. This week, they took us into the forest near the school and made up run around all these trails and find hidden flags…FOR TWO HOURS. Oh, yes. Two hours. At first I thought I had misunderstood the teacher and after asking three separate people in the class to slowly repeat the task for me, I was in shock. I just could not believe they would actually make us run around the cold, damp forest for two hours, mais c’etait vrai. I really don’t know what else to say about this, besides that I’m dreading next week like the plague.
· Went out to lunch and shopping again with Franzi on Wednesday. We went to a “centre-commerical” which is like a mall and I bought a belt and a scarf. At lunch, I had the most glorious open faced sandwich of vegetables, cheese, chicken and a creamy sauce finished off nicely with a crepe. It was very fun to say the least.
And there’s been so much more that I’ve done…but I can’t possible write it all down. Suffice to say, each day is better than the last and I’m really enjoying myself here as I make my transition from American culture to French. Thanks again for all your comments, letters, emails, love and well wishes. I love hearing from home and miss everyone a ton. I often wish I could just easily fly people here as every day I find something I want to show one person or think of something to tell to another.
As a last note a VERY happy late birthday to my beautiful mother (Sept 13) and a VERY happy early birthday to my wonderful daddy (Sept 21). If you see them, give them an extra kiss for me. :]
BISOUS,
Kristen
